-Mounting Tires (Is There A Proper Way)

A:  dot 5.1 has characteristics of dot 5 but not silicone based.  Motul 600 says you can mix with DOT 3,4,5.1. 

DOT3 has a lower boiling point than DOT4, but deteriorates slower in a brake system thus needs changing less frequently.

5.1 is not neccessarily a higher boiling point than DOT4, it's just less viscous and therefore designed for ABS systems to work well under rapid firing, even in arctic conditions.

There really isn't so much motorcycle vs. auto DOT4's, rather that higher quality DOT4 (which costs more) achieves higher than the (Department of Transport/DOT) MINIMUM boiling point of 230C. Usually at around 260C to 300C.

The consumer weighs: Price<>Their usage of bike and resulting brake temperatures and risk level<>Vehicle weight<>Desired life of fluid. Just be glad you have a choice, and as usual you get what you pay for.

With superbike power and weight, play safe and go DOT4 250C+.

Anything lower than 70 horsepower or comes with 4 wheels and a seat belt, I'd try any decent DOT3 or 4.

Full full discussion of this topic click here.

2. Take the bike for a little rip around the neighbourhood to dry off the chain and heat it up a bit.

3. Since I don't have a rear stand, this step requires a 2nd body to be effective but basically, just spin the rear wheel while applying lube. I have heard also the best place to spray the lube is on the lower half of the chain, between the engine and rear sprocket. (same place where you would measure the tension).

I have used several different lubes/waxes, and honestly, I won't use (unless in a bind) anything now except for BEL RAY Super Clean Chain Lube. It goes on a white (blue tint) but really sticks, and if any does fly off, it's pretty much clear. It is the best stuff for my white rims!!! Anyone that has white rims knows what I'm talking about!!!

The can is a grey colour, has a front sprocket and chain on it, black lid. Can't miss it. See attached picture.

Here are Lloyd's 'easy step, no fail program'.

Note: Even though some lids have a removable liner he did mention that often times it is difficult to get the foam back in the right spot to fit just right again. And even if can, this seems easy enough for me.

1. Close your visor and place the helmet on a towel (to prevent damage) in a sink or bathtub (he uses the tub and so will I).

2. Fill the inside of your bucket about 1/3 the way with luke warm water.

3. Add some 'Zero' detergent (or a very very mild soap, but once again, I'm going to be a good student and use Zero) to the water.

4. Add some more water so that you have it about 2/3 full now.

5. Take your hand, and swirl the water around in circles. Watch in awe as the water turns black (and you thought you washed your hair often enough.

6. Empty the water, and repeat steps 2 - 5 as needed, then when you are happy with the cleaning continue on to 7.

7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 as needed (without soap) to rinse the foam. This step is pretty important as you don't want soap left (or large amounts anyway) in the liner.

8. Once the foam is rinse well enough, leave out to dry over night or for a day. Do not apply heat to dry, just set it on a towel (to soak up excess water) and leave to dry. Lloyd personally guarantee's it will be dry by morning ride (give it 12 - 14 hours to be safe I would say)

Thanks for the wonderful tips Lloyd, I will be trying this out soon, as we all know I like my hair products) and will post after and let you all know how I made out.

On a side note, what about us that have communicaton mics/headphones in our helmets. Guess they should be ok too as long as they are left to dry before being plugged in.

A:  Every tire has a direction arrow on it so that should be followed first. 

In the case of a rear tire, usually it is pretty easy to tell the direction that the rim will follow.  Sprocket on one side, disc brake on the other.

On a front rim though, this can be a bit more tricky.  Discs on both sides of the rim, spacers on each side for the axle the same??? 

Most rims (front anyway, haven't confirmed rear) have a small rotation arrow on one side (integrally cast into one of the spokes).  I have also heard that if the rim doesn't, then possible the discs may or the arrow may be located on the inside of the rim.

Ben at North Shore passed this tip on to me a number of years ago, and it has worked for both myself and friends, from street to trackday use on various Suzukis (GSXR750/GSXR1100/GSXR1000/Tl1000s's).

You basically need to remove the damper and cover the work area with newspaper.

-remove the little screw that is about 2/3 the way up the damper body

-invert the screw hole and start pumping the existing crap out of the damper

- when done, using a syringe with a fairly large gauge needle (eg 21 or bigger), suck up some good quality fork/shock oil in the desired weight (a good starting point is 5w)

- insert the needle into the screw hole, allowing it to bend around the damper shaft

- slowly inject the new oil into the damper while slowly pumping the shaft in and out (no snickering)

- once you've moved a few cc's of the good stuff in, put the screw back in, pump back and forth, unscrew and pump the new oil out - this cleans the remnants of crap out

- restart the relatively slow process of filling the syringe and emptying it into the damper (note, it is quite often simpler to remove the needle, suck up the new oil, replace the needle and inject - the viscosity is fairly easy to overcome on the inject, but tough as hell on the upsuck).

- keep adding slowly, allowing the bubbles to exit and pop. If you try to hurry it, you will just spread oil out on the pan and paper you are working over.

- every now and then, pump the damper without the needle in just to remove air blocks. Do it SLOWLY or you will wear the oil

- at some point the damper shaft will go from a notchy feeling to a smooth one. Its almost digital in the way it occurs. At this point, you can pretty much guarantee that its full.

Hint: buy more than one syringe and needle. If you buy just one, you will break the plunger or strip the needle threads on the syringe. If you buy spares, you will only need one. Sound familiar

Having done this, you now have a temperature resistant steering damper that has consistant damping throughout the shaft range. You can consider that it is adjustable, because, opposite to say Ohlins, which has a fixed viscosity and variable orifice, the oem one has a fixed orifice and variable (though labour intensive) viscosity.

This leaves you with $$$$ to spend on suspension or whatever, rather than the killer prices that aftermarket dampers seem to demand.

PS: I use a 20cc syringe, though it depends entirely on you. The larger the syringe, the tougher the plunger. Little diabetic sized ones tend to bend the plunger more quickly if you are putting in any kind of viscosity greater than 2.5w."